Chicago

HOTELS

The Congress Plaza is an old and historic place that is past its prime. Certainly comfortable
amd we were very well treated.  The room we had was pretty plain, with the strongest feature
being a nice closet with both hooks and hangers for clothes and things.  If you are going to
be out and about more than in the room, and  you want a Loop area hotel that doesn't cost a fortune, this is a pretty good choice.

We had a suite at the Palmer House, complete with two full baths.  Quite a deal.  The Palmer House has been extensively updated and is a great place for a Loop stay.  Very central to restaurants, the Art Institute and other things south of the river.  We recommend it highly.

If you like sleek and modern, and you like to be pampered, go to the Park Hyatt.  They had coffee
up to our room within about 5 minutes of check-in, the bell guy gave a thorough tour of the feature-packed 550 sq. foot room. Among those features is a double sized bathtub, flat screen
tv with DVD player,  a very comfy Eames Chair, and a little  tv in the bathroom.  Everything
is sleek and beautiful.  The restaurant on the 7th floor offers a yummy breakfast with a nice view
of the lake. The most complete fitness center we've ever seen in a hotel, with comp water and fruit and a long 3 lane lap pool.   Step outside and you are right in the heart of the Magnificent Mile.  An easy walk
to the Gold Coast and to River North too.  A block to Rush Street.  This place is terrific.

RESTAURANTS

We have one place we always visit when in Chicago: Russian Tea Time, on Adams just off
S. Michigan.  The name is deceptive, for this is a place where you can eat hearty.  Great for we
vegetarians.  Wonderful soups and entrees from an extensive menu.  Great service.

There are three Italian restaurants in the Loop that we like.  Vivere is the most upscale of
a 3 restaurant combination called Italian Village. Trattoria No. 10 is downstairs at 10th
and Dearborn, and makes terrific ravioli. La Rosetta is in a bank building at 70 W. Madison,
and is a very nice place for lunch.  All three have nice things for vegetarians,  excellent salads,
and I would guess do the meat dishes well too.  Nice ambience in all three places.

For dining in the River North, Near North and Mag Mile area, we have several places we've
enjoyed.

Ben Pao is a trendy, lively Asian place that does mainly Chinese.  Not wonderful, not bad.

Cafe Iberico is a Spanish restaurant with a tapas bar.  Seems to be popular with young professional types.
The tapas we had were good; much larger portions than we usually find.  Also spicier than we often find,
so ask about that if spice is an issue.  I wouldn't not call the ambience great, but it was comfortable, service was good.  We will probably try another tapas place next time we are there.

Some of the best Asian food we have had anywhere was served us at lunch at Dragonfly Mandarin, on
North State.  I had a wonderful eggplant dish and Sara said the moo-shoo was superb. We will go back
there next time.

We enjoyed a very tasty and filling meal at Gaylord Indian, 678 N. Clark.  Service was very warm
and friendly.  Ambience is good, but not wonderful.  Food is very tasty and just keeps coming.

We have never been to Pane Caldo for dinner, but we've had lunch there several times.  Very upscale
and elegant, and the best gnocchi I've had anywhere in the country.  We love it.

Tucci Benucch is on the 5th floor of the 900 N. Michigan shops on the Mag Mile.  We had a nice meal,
but this place has a kind of chain-restaurant feel to it, and doesn't compete with more elegant ambience
at Trat No. 10 or Pane Caldo.  Good food and lots of it.  Can't really knock it.

We had breakfast every morning at NoMI, which is on the 7th floor of the Park Hyatt at 800 N.
Michigan.  It is an elegant and beautiful place, and if the lunch and dinner is as beautifully prepared
and served as breakfast, it merits a close look.

SITES AND ATTRACTIONS

We never miss the Shedd Aquarium when in Chicago.  We enjoy the beluga whale show from the
lower level rather than the stands; it's fun to see them hit the water and dive.  The new Wild Reef
section is terrific; not just shark tanks as we had expected.  Amazon Rising always has something
to see.  Some good African tanks too, which is my speciality.  The restaurant (not the food court)
is very nice and a good place for lunch.  Great view of the lake.  The Shedd opens at 9,  for those
who like an early start.

While at the Shedd, step next door to the Field Museum.  You can stand on the steps and look
right at Soldier Field (go Bears!).  Inside, of course, are loads of cool exhibits.  Cabs are easily
available in front of the both the Shedd and Field.  The gift shop at the Field is one of our
favorites, with high quality pieces and not just tourist knick-knacks.  You could easily make
a day of it at the Shedd and Field.  We've never been to the Adler Planetarium, which is next
door.

Another very favorite place is the Chicago Art Institute.  We always visit the Impressionists
and Hopper's Nighthawks.  The Thorne Room miniatures are downstairs and are stunning.
The restaurant is a very nice place for lunch.

The Museum of Broadcast Communications used to be the Cultural Center, but is closed
until it reopens at State & Kinzie sometime in 2005.  When we were there it had great exhibits
on radio and an enjoyable series of things on Chicago tv through the years.  Supposed to be
bigger and better in the new place. Worth a visit.

If you like architectural history, especially Frank Lloyd Wright, there are great places to go
in and around Chicago.  The home and studio is in Oak Park.   We found a nice outfit called
Blue Cab that will come to your hotel and take you out to Oak Park for a flat fee ($18 when we
did it)...way nicer than getting on the Metra. The Robie House is in Hyde Park, on the U of
Chicago campus.  It is pretty well restored now (although work continues) and they do a fine
tour of it and also of the neighborhood if you want to do that too.  We very much enjoyed
the less famous but very beautiful  Charnley House   which is on Astor Street up on the Gold
Coast.  One of the wealthiest streets in America, the area is filled with places worth millions.
On Saturday mornings at 10 a.m. go to the garden entrance of the Charnley (1365 N. Astor) and
they'll let you in for a tour of it and also the fabulous Madlener House up on Burton.  It's a fun
two hours.

The Chicago Historical Society at Clark & North Ave. is one of the nicest museums we have
visited.  Very educational exhibits and films.

We spent a real nice Saturday with a walk up to the Charnley House for the tour, followed by
a lunch at Dragonfly Mandarin, and then a walk up to the Historical Society.  It's a nice low-key
Saturday and we recommend it.