Mudminnow Information Services

	Mudminnow Diseases & Treatments as compiled by Patrick Marshall

Table of Contents
Introduction Viral Diseases Lymphocystis Bacterial Diseases Red Pest Mouth Fungus Tuberculosis Dropsy Scale Protrusion Tail Rot & Fin Rot Protozoal Diseases Velvet or Rust Costia Hexamita Ich Neon Tetra Disease Glugea and Henneguya Chilodonella Fungal Diseases Fungus Ichthyosporidium Parasitic Diseases Argulus Anchor Worm Ergasilus Flukes Nematoda Leeches Pop Eye (Exophthalmos) Non-infectious Maladies Tumors Congenital Abnormalities Injuries Constipation

Introduction I do not expect this report to be complete, but I tried to include any and all diseases and treatments I could find. With the "Diagnostic Chart" and this report you should (I hope) diagnose what ails your fish and have a possible solution to said malady. Please feel free to comment, good or bad, and also let me know what I missed or was wrong on. Just me and be specific. Viral Diseases Lymphocystis Lymphocystis is a virus and, being a virus, affects the cells of the fish. It usually manifests itself as abnormally large lumps in the fins or other parts of the body. It is very infectious, but usually not fatal. Unfortunately, there is no cure. Fortunately, this is a rare disease. There are two camps on treatment. One camp suggests removing and destroying the infected fish as soon as possible. The other camp (my camp) suggests separating the infected fish for several months and hope for remission, which does occur. Bacterial Diseases Red Pest Red Pest is called such because of bloody streaks that appear on the body, fins and/or tail. These streaks could proceed to ulcerations and possibly lead to fin and tail rot with, in severe cases, the tail and/or fins falling off. As the disease is internal, external treatments are usually noneffective, except in very slight cases. In slight cases, treat the aquarium with a disinfectant and clean the aquarium as best as possible. Do not feed a lot while the aquarium is being treated. To disinfect, use acriflavine (trypaflavine) or monacrin (monoaminoacridine) using a 0.2% solution at the rate of 1 ml per liter. Both disinfectants will color the water, but the color disappears as the disinfectants dissipates. If the fish do not appear to respond favorably, discontinue disinfection. Then add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Mouth Fungus Mouth Fungus is so called because it looks like a fungus attack of the mouth. It is actually caused from the bacterium Chondrococcus columnaris. It shows up first as a grey or white line around the lips and later as short tufts sprouting from the mouth like fungus. The toxins produced and the inability to eat will be fatal unless treated at an early stage. Penicillin at 10,000 units per liter is a very effective treatment. Treat with a second dose in two days. Or use chloromycetin, 10 to 20 mg per liter, with a second dose in two days. Tuberculosis Tuberculosis is caused by the bacterium Mycobacterium piscium. Fish infected with tuberculosis may become hollow bellied, pale, show skin ulcers and frayed fins, and loss of appetite. Yellowish or darker nodules may appear on the body or eyes. The main cause for this disease appears to be over crowding in unkempt conditions. There is no known treatment for this disease. The best thing to do is destroy the infected fish and, if unkempt conditions or over crowding is the suspected cause, correct the condition. It is apparently possible for humans to contract this disease, though very rarely, so I would recommend caution when dealing with it. Dropsy Dropsy is caused from a bacterial infection of the kidneys, causing fluid accumulation or renal failure. The fluids in the body build up and cause the fish to bloat up and the scales to protrude. It appears to only cause trouble in weakened fish and possibly from unkempt aquarium conditions. An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it. Scale Protrusion Scale protrusion is essentially a bacterial infection of the scales and/or body. A variety of bacterium could be the culprit here, as can unkempt aquarium conditions. An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it. Tail Rot & Fin Rot Tail and fin rot appears to be a bacterial infection of the tail and/or fins and may be caused from several sources. If aquarium conditions are not good an infection can be caused from a simple injury to the fins/tail. Tuberculosis can lead to tail and fin rot. Basically, the tail and/or fins become frayed or lose color. Over time the affected area slowly breaks down. First, attempt to ascertain the cause. Then treat accordingly. Also, treat the water or fish with antibiotics. If added to the water, use 20 - 30 mg per liter. If the fish is to be treated add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it. Protozoal Diseases Velvet or Rust This disease has the appearance of a golden or brownish dust over the fins and body. The fish may show signs of irritation, like glancing off aquarium decor, shortage of breath (fish-wise), and clamping of the fins. The gills are usually the first thing affected. Velvet affects different species in different ways. Danios seem to be the most susceptible, but often show no discomfort. This diseases is highly contagious and fatal. The best treatment is with copper at 0.2 mg per liter (0.2 ppm) to be repeated once in a few days if necessary. Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used instead at 0.2% solution (1 ml per liter). As acriflavine can possibly sterilize fish and copper can lead to poisoning, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected. Costia This protozoa causes a cloudiness of the skin. It is very rare, but I have included it here just in case. The best treatment is with copper at 0.2 mg per liter (0.2 ppm) to be repeated once in a few days if necessary. Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used instead at 0.2% solution (1 ml per liter). As acriflavine can possibly sterilize fish and copper can lead to poisoning, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected. Raising the water temperature to 80º - 83º F for a few days has also been effective. Hexamita Another name for this disease is "Hole-in-the-Head" disease. Even though this is a disease of the digestive tract, it often manifests itself as ulcerations in the head and/or lateral line. Discus and other large cichlids (my experience with oscars showed this) are especially prone to Hexamita. As it is a disease of the digestive tract, a wasting away or loss of appetite may be experienced. An effective treatment is the drug metronidazole. A combined treatment in the food (1% in any food the fish will eat) and in the water (12 mg per liter) is recommended. Repeat the water treatment every other day for three treatments. Improvement in aquarium conditions has helped in the disease just going away with no treatment. You decide. Ich Ich, Ick, white spot disease, whatever the name, this is the most common malady experienced in the home aquarium. It is actually a protozoa called Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. There are three phases to the life cycle of Ich. Normally, to the amateur aquarist, the life cycle is of no importance. However, with this disease, the life cycle is important for effective treatment. The adult phase; it is embedded in the skin or gills of the fish, causing irritation (with the fish showing signs of irritation) and the appearance of small white nodules. As the parasite grows it feeds on red blood cells and skin cells. After a few days it bores itself out of the fish and falls to the bottom of the aquarium. The cyst phase; after falling to the bottom, the adult parasite forms into a cyst with rapid cell divisions occurring. The free swimming phase; after the cyst phase, about 1000 free swimming young swim upwards looking for a host. If a host is not found within 2 to 3 days, the parasite dies. Once a host is found the whole cycle begins anew. These three phases take about 4 weeks at 70º F but only 5 days at 80º F. As an after thought, I like keeping at least one black molly in the aquarium because, for some reason, they are very susceptible and are usually the first fish to show signs. The free swimming phase is the best time to treat with chemicals. Raising the aquarium temperature to 80º F will greatly shorten the time for the free swimming phase to occur. The drug of choice is quinine hydrochloride at 30 mg per liter (1 in 30,000). Quinine sulphate can be used if the hydrochloride is not available. The water may cloud but this will disappear. By reducing the time (with raised temperature) of the phases, you should be able to attack the free swimming phase effectively. Some aquarists like to use malachite green, but it tends to stain the plastic and silicone in the aquarium. Neon Tetra Disease So named for the fish it was first recognised on. It is caused by the sporozoa Plistophera hyphessobryconis. Even though it is named after Neon Tetras, it can appear on other fish. Whitish patches appear as if just below the skin. In Neon Tetras it destroys the bright blue-green neon stripe. The organisms form cysts which burst and release spores. The spores penetrate further and form more cysts. Eventually, the spores migrate to the water and are eaten by other fish in the food. These spores migrate into the digestive tract, then the muscles, and a new infection starts. I could find no mention of a cure. It is best to destroy the infected fish and clean the aquarium. Glugea and Henneguya Glugea and Henneguya are sporozoans that form large cysts on the fish's body and release spores. Luckily, these diseases are very rare. The fish bloat up, with tumor like protrusions, and eventually die. No cure, as of yet. It is best to destroy the infected fish, hopefully before the spores can spread. Chilodonella This disease causes a blue white cloudiness on the skin and attacks the gills. Later the skin may be broken down and the gills destroyed. The fish may behave like they have irritations, by glancing off aquarium decor, they may have clamped fins and difficulty breathing. Acriflavine (trypaflavine) may be used at 1% solution (5 ml per liter). As acriflavine can sterilize fish, the water should be gradually changed after a cure has been effected. It also helps to raise the temperature to about 80º F. Fungal Diseases Fungus The causes of fungus disease are many (injuries, weakened fish, other diseases, etc.), so we will only cover the description followed by the treatment. The symptoms are a grey or whitish growth in and on the skin and/or fins of the fish. Eventually, if left untreated, these growths will become cottony looking. The fungus, again if left untreated, will eventually eat away on the fish until it finally dies. After ascertaining the initial cause of the fungus and remedying that, use a solution of phenoxethol at 1% in distilled water. Add 10 ml of this solution per liter of aquarium water. Repeat after a few days if needed, but only once more as three treatments could be dangerous to aquarium inhabitants. Ichthyosporidium Ichthyosporidium is a fungus, but it manifests itself internally. It primarily attacks the liver and kidneys, but it spreads everywhere else. The symptoms vary. The fish may become sluggish, lose balance, show hollow bellies, and eventually show external cysts or sores. By then it is usually too late for the fish. Treatment is difficult. Phenoxethol added to food as a 1% solution may be effective. Chloromycetin added to the food has also been effective. But both of these treatments, if not watched with caution, could pose a risk to your fish. It's best, if diagnosed soon enough, just to destroy the affected fish before the disease can spread. Parasitic Diseases Argulus The fish louse is a flattened mite-like crustacean about 5 mm long that attaches itself to the body of fish. They irritate the host fish which may have clamped fins, become restless, and may show inflamed areas where the lice have been. With larger fish and light infestations, the lice can be picked off with a pair of forceps. Other cases can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water. Anchor Worm Anchor worms are actually crustaceans. The young are free swimming and borrow into the skin, go into the muscles and develop for several months before showing. They release eggs and die. The holes left behind are ugly and may become infected. The anchor worm is too deeply imbedded to safely remove. Treatment can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water. Ergasilus This parasite is like the anchor worm, but attacks the gills. Treatment can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water. Flukes There are many species of flukes, which are flatworms about 1 mm long, and several symptoms that show up. They infest gills and skin much like ich, but the difference can be seen with a hand lens. You should be able to see movement and possibly eye spots, which is not found in ich. The species that attack the gills could destroy them thus killing the fish. Symptoms of a heavy infestations are pale fish with drooping fins, rapid respiration, glancing off aquarium decor, and /or hollow bellies. Treatment can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water. Nematoda Nematodes (threadworms) infect just about anywhere in the body but only shows itself when they hang out of the anus. A heavy infestation causes hollow bellies. Lighter infestations usually cause no problems with the fish. Short of destroying the fish, which is easier, two treatments have been suggested. First treatment; soak the food in parachlorometaxylenol and give the fish a bath or treat the aquarium with 10 ml per liter. The bath should last for several days. Second treatment; find special food containing thiabendazole as a nematode (threadworm) cure and hope the fish eat it. Leeches Leeches are external parasites and affix themselves on the body, fins, or gills of the fish. Usually they appear as heart shaped worms (they are just curled up) attached to the fish. Since leeches are sucking and borrowing into the surface of the fish, removal with forceps can cause great damage, if not death, to the fish. If the fish is bathed in a 2.5 percent solution of salt for 15 minutes, most of the leeches should just fall off. Those that do not will be affected enough to remove with forceps with minimal damage. Pop Eye (Exophthalmos) I did not include this malady in any category because just about anything can cause this condition. The eye or eyes of the fish become quite extended (hence pop eye) and could lead to blindness or loss of the eye. The first step in treating pop eye is determining the cause. Look for other symptoms that may not be overly obvious and proceed from there. After the cause has been determined and, if possible, corrected, the only thing left is to wait for regression. Again depending on the cause, the only fear is blindness. If you are attached to your pet separate him and just pay more attention to feeding. Non-infectious Maladies Tumors Tumors can be caused by a virus or a cancer, but most tumors are genetic. The genetic tumors may be caused from too much hybridisation, common amongst professional breeders. Practically all tumors are untreatable. If the fish is in distress, it should be destroyed. Congenital Abnormalities Abnormalities usually occur when professional breeders are trying to acquire certain strains in breeds. Most are beneficial abnormalities like albinism or extra finnage. But undesirable abnormalities crop up and are usually culled out by the breeder. However, such abnormalities sometimes happen in the amateur aquarium. If the abnormality is not life threatening or degrades the quality of life, just leave it be and brag to your friends about the unusual inhabitant. Otherwise, the fish should be humanely destroyed. Injuries Even in the best of aquariums and under the supervision of the most astute aquarists, injuries occur. Some times a bully fish is the culprit, or sharp decor. Sometimes there appears to be no explanation. As in the human world, accidents happen. If the cause of the injury is obvious, it should be remedied. Then the injury should be treated. The injury should be touched with 2% Mercurochrome, which is supplied commercially. Also, depending on the fish's tolerance to water conditions, keeping the fish in slightly acid water should speed recovery (pH 6.6). Minor injuries, if the water conditions are good, should just heal themselves. Constipation Some fish are more susceptible to constipation than others. Usually fish with more compressed bodies like angelfish and silver dollars. Symptoms are loss of appetite and swelling of the body. The cause is almost always diet. Usually, with a change of diet, the condition rights itself. But in stubborn cases try dried food that has been soaked in medicinal paraffin oil. Glycerol or castor oil may also be used. If the diet is changed on a regular basis and live foods offered occasionally this condition may never occur.